A thanks to Monterey Bay Nursery for this one... Aloe polyphylla (KARATSA, ALAN'S ALOE) - this wonderful, stemless, spiral-form succulent is grown for its amazing, hypnotizingly perfect rosettes of short, tight, dense blue-green leaves, with not-very-threatening yellow spines, to form a specimen about 1' tall and 2' wide. Occasional monsters reach 3' tall and wide. There are left-spiral and right-spiral variants, and they can even switch direction. It does flower, very rarely here (or in its native habitat), and after a very long time, with short, dense, chunky, basally branched stalks of yellow to deep coral orange flowers that are quite respectable. Most of what is in California derives from plants grown from seeds that a Santa Cruz landscaper and nurseryman, Alan Beverly, brought back from working as a botanist in the country of Lesotho, its only source, where it grows in high altitude regions of the Drakenburg.

While in Lesotho Alan was able to collect seeds that gave rise to his first generation seedlings. Current tissue culture material we buy likely originates from some of Alan's little plants. It likes cool summers, can take cold winters, and even snow. It also likes regular summer watering. Apparently this species is rather easily grown here compared to in its native country and is now becoming rather widespread in California. Plants were undamaged at 25F this past January of 2007. It is grown to USDA zone 7b at Plant Delights Nursery, where they state it is "is perfectly adaptable to the cold winters of the eastern US." It seems to not like typical Aloe country, meaning hot and dry, and Southern Californians away from the coast will probably have trouble. Give it good drainage everywhere and less sun in those hotter climates. Paul Licht of the UC Berkeley Botanic Garden notes it does very well planted on an angled slope or mound, where water has a tougher time causing trouble trapped in amongst the leaves or against the trunk. It makes a killer container plant. *NEW for 2007!*

Subject to stock on hand. Available in 1 gallon containers.

Perhaps one of the most beautiful flowers around is the tuberous begonia. There are many varieties, from single or double flower, ruffled-petal flowers, to camellia- or carnation-form flowers. There are even pendulous forms perfect for hanging baskets. Their colors are extremely vivid, ranging from reds and red-orange to orange, yellow, white and hot pink; there are even bi-colored varieties. The tuberous begonia is a highly versatile plant whose almost fluorescent flowers are wonderful in flowerbeds, patio containers, window boxes or even hanging baskets.

Tuberous begonias will bloom for you all summer long and into early fall. Although they are not frost hardy, they can be pulled out of the ground as they start to go dormant in fall, then cleaned off and stored in a cool, dry location over winter and replanted in spring after any danger of frost is gone. Handled correctly, they can provide years of beauty in the garden.

Tuberous begonias should be planted in soil that maintains moisture, but also drains (no standing water). If you plant into the ground, you may need to amend your native soil with Gardner & Bloome Planter's Mix. If you are creating colorful containers, be sure to plant using a high-quality potting soil like Gardner & Bloome Potting Soil.

These begonias like indirect light or dappled shade locations and need to be kept moist with regular watering. Please take care not to let them dry out. To maintain their vibrant blooms, feed regularly with Max Sea Multi-Purpose Fertilizer.

We have many spectacular varieties available right now, just waiting for a home in your garden. Visit us soon for the best selection.

It can be grown as a small shrub/tree form or as an espalier. The bright, fleshy red blossoms are quite stunning to look at. The different varieties of fruit are even more showy (and wonderful to eat).

Pomegranates need full sun and love heat. They can be in part shade, but the flower/fruit production will increase in the sun. They perform best with seasonal feedings in November and March each year. Maintain a good amount of mulch or compost under the plant out to its drip line to help soil stay moist and prevent fruit splitting. This will maintain a healthy pomegranate and encourage fruiting.

You can grow pomegranate as a small-scale, multi-stemmed tree. It is beautiful enough to hold its own as a specimen plant in the garden. Pomegranates also are very showy when grown in espalier form on a wall of your home, garden or fence. The fruit not only tastes great but has many health benefits, too. It's the perfect time to plant pomegranates, so come in and get yours today!

The Fourth of July is around the corner. Create an Independence Day planter in red, white, and blue! For reds: try verbena, petunia, Sweet William, or salvia. For blues: Bachelor's button, salvia, petunia, or lobelia. For whites: alyssum, petunia, candytuft.

Now...on to the July tasks in your gardens!

Planting
You can still plant some annuals and perennials in your summer gardens. For annuals, try marigolds, portulaca, zinnias, and vinca rosea for that huge splash of color. For perennials, and even more color, plant coreopsis, gaura, rudbeckias (Irish Eyes, etc), salvias, and many more.

Tropical plants are popular now and can be brought into any garden, whether tropical, cottage, or country themes. Flowering shrubs include hibiscus, brugmansia (Angel's Trumpet), canna, bougainvillea, and vines such as passion flower. Large-leaf evergreens include philodendrons, tree ferns, and cannas. You can even include abutilon, which comes in several colors including red, yellow, orange, and pink.

Harvesting
You are probably busy harvesting and enjoying your summer vegetables like green beans, tomatoes, eggplant, squashes, and peppers. You can also continue to plant these veggies to extend your crop harvest.

Maintenance
We all have been experiencing a major "pest" time in our gardens. Those holes in your rose leaves are from the rose slug. Aphids love the rose buds, and more. You can wash off these pests with water. You can also use Take Down Insecticide, an organic remedy. Caterpillars are abundant. And we can't forget snails — they won't let us. We recommend Sluggo Plus for snails, slugs, earwigs and sowbugs.

It's feeding time for your flowerbeds, roses, vegetables, citrus and warm-season lawns. Come in and ask one of us what fertilizers will be best for each of your plant needs. We offer a wide selection of fertilizers: multipurpose, organic, and slow release.

You can do some pruning, even though it's summertime. Fuchsia 'Gartenmeister,' gaura, and salvias will look much better if cut back by about 1/3. Oh...and your catmint, too.

If you forgot to increase your watering from the spring months, you must do so now. Trees (non-citrus) and shrubs will need deep soaks once each month in the summer, and regular irrigation in between. Citrus and your flowerbeds need regular weekly watering.

Those of you growing tomatoes and peppers, watch for tomato hornworms. They will need to be hand-picked from your foliage.

As usual, mulch, mulch, mulch! We will always tell you to mulch. This does not mean mound up the mulch to 5 feet. It means continue to replenish the mulch and maintain a 2-4 inch blanket over your soil. So when you hear us singing the MULCH song, you know just what we mean!

And last, but not least, have a very Happy Independence Day!

Blossom end rot happens not just with tomatoes, but also with peppers, squash and watermelons. There are a number of reasons for blossom end rot, all of which start because the plant has an inability to obtain calcium from the soil or the soil is deficient in calcium.

Blossom end rot is a sunken, dark area on the blossom end of the fruit, at the end opposite the stem. As the fruit develops, the rot area enlarges and can grow mold in the damaged area.

A number of factors can contribute to blossom end rot, in addition to calcium deficiency. These include irregular watering, soil mineral imbalance, root damage, broad temperature swings, or even high soil salt content. To compensate for some of these, deep water regularly instead of lightly watering daily; mulch to keep moisture in the soil; avoid high nitrogen foods that encourage foliage growth but not flower growth; avoid using fresh manure (once the plants are in the garden) because it is high in salt content.

But most important of all is the lack of calcium in the soil. To prevent blossom end rot, feed your vegetables regularly with a vegetable food high in calcium, such as Dr. Earth Organic #5 (7.96% Calcium). On existing plants showing blossom end rot, spray the foliage and fruit with a calcium spray, such as Foli-Cal by Monterey (a 10% Calcium concentrate).

The fruit is ripening on your backyard fruit trees and the vegetables in your garden are looking really good. You're starting to anticipate a fabulous harvest. Unfortunately, so are the birds, squirrels and other critters. If you are unwilling to share your garden with your winged and animal friends, consider covering your tree with fruit tree netting. Fruit tree netting is easy to install.

For Fruit Trees
Wrap fabric around or drape over your trees (for tall trees, use a pole to lift the netting over tree-tops). Gather it at the trunk and secure it with twist ties. Just roll back edge of netting for easy harvesting.

For Vegetable Gardens, Grapes, or Berries
Simply drape fabric over garden and secure with stakes, or weigh down the corners with heavy objects. To protect seeds, seedlings, and upright plants, elevate netting 6" or more above the ground using stakes, wire, etc. Lift the netting for easy harvesting.
Fruit tree netting is not only durable and lightweight, but also strong enough to protect your garden from thieving birds and other garden pests. It's a safe alternative to chemicals and is reusable season after season. Pick some up today and protect your much anticipated harvest.

Jim was born in Santa Clara, California. He was raised on a small farm where is family grew apricots, cherries, almonds, and prunes. He majored in English and Political Science in college but eventually went to work in the photography field. After fourteen years at Eastman Kodak, Jim took a chance and quit to begin a long-term career in the nursery business.

Jim is a passionate environmentalist and vegetarian. He regularly participates in volunteer projects in his spare time, building fences, repairing trails and ridding parks and preserves of non-native invasive plant species. His long-term goals are to become a published author while continuing his work and passion for the environment.