Don’t wait until it is time to plant your tender overwintering bulbs before checking them for rot. Storage rots are common, and easily spread from affected bulbs or corms to healthy ones.

Bulbs, corms and tubers being over-wintered in a frost-free place should be checked once a month. By eliminating diseased or soft bulbs or corms, you will prevent the rot's spreading to others.

If you discover soft or diseased bulbs in store, it’s worth dusting the others with a fungicide, such as Bonide Sulfur Plant Fungicide. Check with the label to ensure that it is suitable for the purpose, and be careful not to inhale the dust.

Never attempt to grow the same bulbs indoors for a second year, with the exception of indoor plants like amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Forcing hardy bulbs to flower indoors drains their reserves, and results are almost always disappointing a second time. But there is no need to discard them. Plant them in the garden where they should gradually recover over a few months.

If you plan to keep your bulbs to grow in the garden, deadhead them as soon as the display is over. This will avoid energy being wasted on seed production. Do not plant directly into the garden, but acclimatize them gradually by placing in a cold frame or other cool but protected place. Regular watering and a dose of liquid feed, like Dr. Earth All Purpose Liquid Fertilizer, will help them recover.

In spring, plant the bulbs out in a border or other spot where they can be left undisturbed to grow as a natural group. Some types of bulb may not produce flowers the following season, but probably will do so in subsequent years.

Nearly everyone takes stem cuttings as some point, but surprisingly few gardeners bother with root cuttings. Some useful plants can be propagated this way, and it is an interesting and relatively simple winter job, because root cuttings are only likely to be successful if taken during the dormant season.

Lift a young but well-established plant to provide the cuttings. If you don’t want to use the whole plant for cuttings, and prefer to leave the parent plant largely undisturbed, just remove soil from one side to gain access to the roots. If the plant has large, fleshy roots, cut off some that are close to the main stem or root. You should be able to make several cuttings from one root by cutting it into sections later.

Cut each root into lengths about 2 inches long. To help you remember which way is up, cut them horizontally at the top and diagonally at the bottom. Fill the pot with a gritty potting mixture and insert the cuttings, using a dibber or pencil to make the hole. The top of the cutting should be flush with the top of the potting soil.

Sprinkle a thin layer or grit over the surface. Label, as nothing will be visible for a few months, and it’s easy to forget what the pot contains. Place in a cold frame or greenhouse and keep the potting soil just moist.

Some plants, such as border phlox and rock plants like Primula denticulata, have thin roots. These can be laid horizontally, so don’t make sloping cuts to indicate the bottom. Just cut into 1-2 inch lengths. Fill a seed tray with gritty compost and firm it level.

Space the cuttings out evenly over the surface, then cover them with a layer of the gritty potting mix. Keep moist but not too wet, in a cold frame or greenhouse.

Some good plants to grow from cuttings are Acanthus, Echinops, Gaillardia, Phlox (border), Primula denticulata, Pulsatilla vulgaris, and Romneya coulteri.

Turn to ‘M’ in Trees and Shrubs (an illustrated a-z of 8500 plants) and before any other listing you will see a two-page full color enlarged photograph of one gorgeous, creamy white Southern Magnolia flower cupped gently and safely above thick dark green glossy foliage. Beholding this picture says it all for the Magnolia and demonstrates how this one in particular boldly represents the genus.

There are many, many species and cultivars of Magnolia (hundreds). This tree (and sometimes shrub) originated both in North America and also throughout Asia. Having said that, it is obvious that there will be a species or cultivar available for your climate zone. There are both deciduous species – lose their foliage for a short time during the dormant season - and evergreen species, which as the word implies, never loose their foliage.

The magnolia genus is an ancient one. We admire the beauty of its flower but this same flower carries with it an interesting history. Its flowers are considered to be “primitive” in the flowering plant world (angiosperms). Apparently because it evolved long, long before bees, the flowers evolved to be pollinated by beetles. To ensure pollination, the flower structure remained simple, not complex. In the center of whorled, large petals stand numerous tall pollen coated anthers. Any nectar-seeking insect, such as the early beetles, accomplished the necessary pollination for this genus.

The Southern Magnolia is evergreen, highly fragrant and bears this voluptuous flower. The Southern Magnolia probably exemplifies the best of the evergreen magnolias. This tree is also one of the largest growing of the magnolias, growing broadly to 80 feet or more. Lucky of those of us with smaller gardens, there is a dwarf variety called “Little Gem” that is considerably smaller and even can be espaliered on a fence or wall. The "Little Gem" is one of our best sellers at Almaden Valley Nursery.

There are also deciduous species of magnolia, which are quite well represented. The Saucer Magnolia or Tulip Magnolia (M. soulangeana) comes to mind. The flowers are borne on the branches in spring first, before the foliage. There are several cultivars available offering a variety of flower colors from white to pink-purple petals to rosy pink. Another favorite among the deciduous Magnolias is the Star Magnolia. Clusters of fragrant white star shaped flowers will abundantly bloom before the foliage reemerges each spring. All of our deciduous varieties have already started arriving in the nursery.

Fall or spring are both good times for planting a magnolia. Remember to consider the ultimate size of the variety that you select when deciding where to place this newcomer in your garden. Magnolias need full sun. If placed into too much shade, the tree may grow to be too leggy and lack of sun might limit the degree of flowering. Dig a hole at least twice the size of the ball of the new tree, and mix your native soil at least 50-50 with Gardner & Bloome planting mix. Water regularly, but do not over-water. Once established, the water can be reduced. In the spring, feed with Master Nurseryman's 16-16-16 Multi-Purpose Fertilizer, which is an excellent general-purpose fertilizer.

No garden should be without this wonderful tree. Standing alone, boldly displaying its flowers or tucked in with the camellia, azalea, Chinese fringe (Loropetalum), and rhododendrons, everyone must have The Magnificent Magnolia!

Brian was born and raised in San Jose and currently is a student at Mission College, where he is studying to become a firefighter like his father and grandfather before him.

Ever the prankster, Brian was once suspended from high school for a week after setting off a stink bomb in his science class and causing the evacuation of the classroom.

Always interested in science, he once broke his hand punching the ground to see how "hard" it really was. Fortunately, the incident didn't cause any permanent injury.

Brian enjoys four-wheeling, sleeping, watching movies, sleeping, hanging out with his friends and . . . sleeping.

My Celebrity Service staff and I look forward to serving you this year. We'll go out of our way to make your day!

Matt Lepow - President