Ceanothus/Mountain Lilac: These are the sky blue shrubs that decorate hillsides and highways in spring. Depending on the variety, Ceanothus blooms display nearly every hue of blue, from powder to indigo. En masse, the flowers are intoxicatingly fragrant, but merely food for the many butterflies and other insects they draw.

Fast growing, Mountain Lilac is drought tolerant once established, thriving with little care; fertilizer is unnecessary, since the plant contains nitrogen-fixing bacteria on its root nodules.

Ceanothus makes good screens, dividers, or with the larger varieties, small trees.

‘Joyce Coulter' is a moderate-sized selection with clusters of dark purple-blue blooms on a dense, small-leaved plant. It's one the few ceanothus that respond well to heavy pruning, even hedging.

'El Dorado' is a yellow variegated form discovered as a "sport" of an English ceanothus. Not strictly a California native, it nonetheless does exceedingly well here, creating a dramatic contrast between the gold foliage and profuse blue spring blooms. Slow to moderate growing to 4'-10' high.



Penstemon/Beardstongue: Native penstemon inspires gardeners because of their beautiful blooms and incredible number of species from which to choose. The many-hued tubular flowers attract hummingbirds and bees. Many are disease resistant and drought tolerant once established.

Penstemon are standouts almost anywhere; in containers, along pathways or edgings, or spilling over a rock wall.

Azure Penstemon boasts bright blue-lavender flowers in spring and summer, rising above a relaxed 18" high plant. It is a low water user once established.

Sisyrinchium/Blue-eyed Grass: A member of the iris family, blue-eyed grass is a charmer. Rarely reaching more than 6" to 12" high and wide, its yellow-centered dark blue flowers and narrow iris-like leaves fit nicely into foregrounds, along pathways, or in containers. In the "wild" it wisely goes dormant approaching the dry summer, reviving with fall rains. Keep it green all year with supplemental summer watering.

‘Arroyo de la Cruz' is a dwarf selection. Dark purple/blue blooms are heavily floriferous in spring and early summer.

Native Grasses: Yes, we know that people don't get excited about grasses; "It looks like the weeds I pull up!" As they say, get over it.

Any grass adds texture and motion to a garden, and our natives are no exception. Nearly all bird nests are partially constructed with grass, beneficial insects associate with grasses, and many birds eat grass seeds. California Fescue is one of the best. To 3' tall and wide, it is evergreen and does well in sun or shade. Red Fescue is the choice substitute for thirsty turf. It takes foot traffic and mowing. Still think they're weeds?

Arctostaphylos/Manzanita: California's signature shrub. This very large group of plants is extremely ornamental, and is prized for reddish-purple bark and crooked trunks. They range in size from groundcovers to medium and large shrubs. Most manzanitas prefer full sun, average to good drainage, and need little to no summer water once established. Plant creeping varieties in parking strips or slopes. Larger forms make excellent focal points in dry gardens, or informal dividers. Manzanita berries are eaten by songbirds, and late winter blooms keep hummingbirds around.

‘Emerald Carpet' is a nearly care-free ground cover. 'Howard McMinn,' and ‘Sentinel' are medium-sized shrubs with pinkish-white late winter, early spring blooms. They both tolerate heavier clay soils.

We carry many other popular native plants, and incorporating any of them into our yards will acknowledge the precious legacy of our native flora, and remind us that the state we live in is unique.

Visit the Collector's Corner and talk with a knowledgeable associate. If a desired plant is unavailable, tell us. Almaden Valley Nursery will do its best to help you go native!

Jim Citta has worked for Almaden Valley Nursery for 11 years and has over 20 years in the nursery industry. He is an avid native plant collector and his garden will be on the Go Native Garden Tour this April.

One of the most graceful plants that can enhance your outdoor garden is also one of the easiest houseplants to grow: the calla lily, which isn't really a lily, nor is it a calla, although it is related to the latter genus. In reality, the calla lily is the common name for the zantedeschia genus; just as our family trees can be at times daunting in their complexities, so too with our favorite flowers. The genus calla was originally named by the famous Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus, but when the German botanist Karl Koch realized that it had become apparent that the genus needed to be split up, he honored his fellow Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi by naming the new genus after him. The Europeans quickly recognized the value of this new flower, and it became a popular favorite for both weddings (as it signifies magnificence and beauty) and funerals.

As the blooms begin to wither, remove them, and gradually reduce watering until the foliage dies. Rest the tubers for 2 to 3 months without moisture, then repot and lightly water until the new plant is several inches above the soil line. If you prefer them indoors, no matter where you live, you will be able to enjoy near year-long blooms. Or, you can also enjoy them indoors, then move them outside during warm weather for garden enhancement.

We know that we can enjoy this fascinating flower indoors. Now we're going to talk about how to enjoy the calla outdoors. Perennial bulbs, or rhizomes, calla lilies can grow to a height of from 1.5 to 4 feet with long, rich green leaves. While white is normally associated with this flower, they actually come in a wide variety of colors, from white to pink, purple, yellow, orange, and even black! They are tolerant of most pests and diseases, and are suitable for cut flower gardens, or planting en masse in beds, low borders, patio pots or planters. As with most plants, they will appreciate a cover of mulch, which holds in the moisture and keeps weeds at bay.

While their normal blooming time is listed as late spring, this northern gardener finds that they thrive throughout the summer outdoors, until close to the first deep frost. If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, they are perennials outdoors and will not require indoor storage. In colder climes, after the foliage has withered away, dig up the long-fingered tubers, storing them in a breathable bag in perlite, peat moss, or vermiculite. When frost danger has passed, you may then transplant them outside, fertilizing with a 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 mixture.

One caveat: as calla lilies contain a poisonous ingredient called oxalic acid, keep children and pets away from your plants. With this simple precaution, you'll have a perennial that you may enjoy indoors and then place outdoors after the ground has warmed.

Pluck a sprig of mint and crush it between your fingers and you'll release a cool distinctive fragrance not matched by any other plant. But mint doesn't just smell good--it packs a mighty punch of flavor, too.

Mint can be very invasive, so it does need caution. Given good conditions, it will happily take over your garden. But who said you have to plant it in the ground? If you want something to take over your yard (perhaps a grass alternative), one of the creeping mints can be a good choice for a groundcover. But if you want to keep mint contained, the best way is to grow it in a container. It spreads rapidly by shallow rhizomes, so if the roots can get out of an area, it will pop up elsewhere. We recommend planting mint in containers and putting them on tables where the wonderful fragrance can be closer to your nose and you can easily pluck a sprig or three, without bending. They go nicely on a sunny kitchen windowsill during winter, too.

Since mint is a shallow-rooted plant, you can plant it in low, 12-18 inch wide bowls. When the plant gets too crowded, simply cut it in half and re-pot with fresh potting soil. Keep your plants moist and feed occasionally--that's it.

Mint leaves can be harvested regularly and enjoyed. Just pinch as needed. It is best when picked early in the morning. To dry mint, cut the stalks just above the first set of leaves, as soon as the flower buds appear. Hang upside down in a dark, well ventilated room for two weeks or more.

Don't limit yourself to one kind of mint. There are dozens of varieties available and each one has its own unique flavor. Mint can be used to flavor drinks and salads, it can be made into a jelly and vinegars to flavor meats, and some, like chocolate mint, will make you think you've just eaten dessert.

So go ahead and give your energy a boost, refresh your spirit and revitalize your senses. Plant some mint today!

Can you grow grass in shade?

Answer:

That depends on how much shade you actually have. Fescue types of grass will tolerate shade better than most grasses. You can also use a shady blend grass seed such as Master Nursery Sun & Shadow Mix, but even shade-tolerant grasses need a certain amount of sunshine to grow. Ultimately, the way you manage your shady lawn is more important than which seed type you select.

Five practices that will help your shade tolerant grass survive in the shade:

• First, mow your grass higher. Grass in the shade should be cut approximately 1/2 to 1 inch higher than the grass growing in full sunlight. This will allow more leaf area to intercept the limited amount of sunlight.
  
• Second, fertilize less often, at half the normal amount so the grass won't try to grow what it can't support.
  
• Third, water more (and deeply) in the hot summer months, so the grass is not stressed by heat.
  
• Fourth, selectively prune and thin limbs of heavy shade producing trees to allow more light to reach your lawn. Remove all limbs below ten feet. Rake and remove leaves or needles before they accumulate.
  
• Finally, try to minimize traffic and activities in the shaded grass areas during the summer months. This will reduce the wear stress on the turf. If the grass is in a path where traffic cannot be avoided, place stepping-stones or pine bark to create a trail.

If you combine these suggestions, you should notice a much healthier lawn. If none of this works, consider replacing your shaded area with shade-loving flowers, groundcover, or mulch.

What You'll Need:

• 3 1/2 cups flour
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1 1/2 cups raisins
• 1 1/3 cup buttermilk
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 4 tbsp melted butter
• 1/2 tsp vanilla
• 1 tbsp caraway seeds

Step by Step:

Mix dry ingredients. Mix liquid ingredients. Mix together until well blended. Grease and flour baking dish. Pour in mixture and bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes.

Enjoy!