First, a note on summer planting — There are those that think rose planting season is over by now. After all, it's past the first of June; aren't they supposed to be planted in cold weather at bareroot season? Nonsense. You can plant roses in the summer.

Here are a few tips for hot weather planting: Always make sure the rose is well watered before planting; never plant (or fertilize) a dry or wilted plant. Provide lots of water after planting. It's a good idea to trim back some of the top growth so the roots don't have to work so hard. You can safely take off about 1/3 of the top growth. Use lots of planting mix and save some for a top dressing of mulch to help keep the roots cool.

Once they are planted, these simple tips on care can help you keep your roses happy and healthy.

Caring for Your Roses

Remember that prevention by proper care is the best protection against problems. Roses need a sunny location with at least 5 hours of sun per day. They perform better in a rich moist soil with regular feeding every 6-8 weeks. We recommend using Dr. Earth Organic 3 Rose & Flower Food. After each bloom cycle, prune back canes anywhere between the first five-leafed leaflet and at least two leaflets above the previous cut.

The Most Common Problems Are:

Aphids. Tiny insects found on the tips of new growth and buds.

Bristly rose slug. This larva of the sawfly is found on the underside of the leaves. It eats leaf tissue, leaving a lace effect. It's not hard to control, but will do a lot of damage if ignored.

Thrips. Tiny insects found on the inside of flowers, thrips cause distorted and stunted blossoms. They usually show up at the end of summer in warm weather.

Mites. These microscopic spider-like insects suck on leaf tissue and produce webbing between the foliage. They produce a speckled fading effect on the leaves and are most active in temperatures above 85 degrees.

Powdery mildew. A fungal disease that looks like white dust on the leaves.

Rust. A fungal disease that looks like orange powder on the backs of the leaves. Avoid watering late in the day to help prevent fungal problems.

For insects, a horticultural oil such as Bonide All-Seasons Oil will take care of many problems, if they are caught early. For persistent problems consider using Ortho Systemic Insect Killer. It's good to have some on hand to head off developing problems. For fungus and disease we recommend Immunox Fungicide Spray.

There is a wealth of information available on rose care. By following the simple basics discussed here, even the beginning gardener should be able to enjoy roses. Just remember - lots of sunshine, water and regular feeding.

Quick Overview of Modern Rose Types

Miniatures — Small leaves with flowers 1-2 inches wide are borne in clusters on plants 1-2 feet tall and wide. Great for containers.
Floribunda — The blooms resemble hybrid teas in form but are smaller in size and borne in clusters of 5-10. They average 3-4 feet in height.
Grandiflora — Blooms are slightly smaller than hybrid teas but slightly larger than floribundas borne in clusters of 3-5. they grow 5-7 feet high.
Hybrid Tea — Large flowers 4-6 inches across are borne singly or in small clusters. They average 4-6 feet in height and make the best cut flowers.
Polyantha — Clusters of small to medium sized flowers usually on low, shrubby plants 2-3 feet high and wide. Excellent for border plantings.
Climbers — Varieties with long arching canes that can climb up walls or fences with support. They can spread up to 10-15 feet
English Roses — A cross between modern hybrid teas and old world roses. Very fragrant, cupped, multi-petaled flowers on plants 3-7 feet high.
Shrub Roses — Clusters of small to medium-sized flowers. The plants range from low to spreading, and from to 4-6 feet high and equally wide.

Fuchsias should be covered with a blanket of bloom right now . Feed them often with Fish Emulsion or Maxsea 14-18-14 Acid Plant Food. When the individual flowers of most fuchsia varieties fade they fall off the plant, but they leave their seed pods still attached to the branch. Pinch off these seed pods, or berries as they're often called, daily if possible after the flowers fall. This keeps the plants blooming.

If you don't have time for removing seed pods, grow single varieties rather than double varieties. Note: The top four, often upward curving, petallike parts of fuchsias are called the sepals. The true petals hang down in the center and are called the corolla. Varieties with five or six petals in the corolla are considered single. Flowers with big, fluffy, may-petalled corollas are double.)

Water fuchsias regularly to prevent them from drying out, but don't overwater. Soggy soil can lead to root rot, fuchsias' worst enemy. Be on the lookout for pests, and spray if necessary with Ortho Systemic Insect Killer. Continue to introduce beneficial insects and encourage garden spiders. If these seem to be controlling most problems, don't spray.

Visit the nursery to pick out new fuchsia varieties now and you'll have the summer and fall to enjoy them. Choose them according to the environment you'll provide. White and pastel colors usually need more shade. Reds, purples, and small single varieties can usually take more sun.

Fuchsias do best in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade . No fuchsia can bloom in solid shade; all need partial sun, such as under a lath, shade cloth, or an open tree. Upright varieties are best in the ground or tubs. Trailers are best in hanging baskets.

Gardenias are among our most grown and least understood plants. They're often put in the wrong spots, such as small, shady patios, where they invariably get whiteflies. Wrong locations can also cause bud drop, especially in warm zones. Gardenias need acid soil, good drainage, adequate moisture, full sun in cooler areas or part shade in warmer areas, protection from thrips. They also need regular fertilizing for growth and flowers, with an acid-type product that contains trace elements to prevent chlorosis. We recommend Dr. Earth Organic #4 Acid Plant Food.

However, you can meet all these requirements and still have gardenias that drop buds instead of blooming. The reason is that if night temperatures get over 60 degrees to 62 degrees the buds won't develop. They'll stay on the plant but they won't grow. Then.. if suddenly a few cool nights occur, they'll all drop off. So don't grow gardenias where they'll be subjected to warm night temperatures. For example: in patios, on porches, or close to house walls. Put them where temperatures are colder at night, away from the house and out under the open sky; with the daily temperature spread they'll bloom.

Irene is a native of San Jose and enjoys traveling, dancing, working out, and going with friends to comedy clubs.

As a child Irene once led Operation Tadpole Rescue, saving as many "orphan" tadpoles from the local creek as her mother's Tupperware collection would hold. Her house soon became home to a budding reptilian ecosystem, and her parents spent many a sleepless night listening to a chorus of croaking and unwittingly sharing their beds with Irene's frogs and turtles.

Once out of high school, Irene took a job with a refuse company leading tours of the sanitation recycling industry.

Ever impulsive, Irene has been known to suddenly take off on long 12-hour drives to the country. In the winter, she enjoys Frisbee-sliding in the snow.

My Celebrity Service staff and I look forward to serving you this year. We'll go out of our way to make your day!

Eric Wilder - President